Fann wa Chai (Art and Tea) in Amman
One summer day in the mid-1980s, in the very early hours of the morning, I sat waiting on the porch of our Shmeisani home. My friends were picking me up to go to Aqaba by the Red Sea, 200 miles away.
One summer day in the mid-1980s, in the very early hours of the morning, I sat waiting on the porch of our Shmeisani home. My friends were picking me up to go to Aqaba by the Red Sea, 200 miles away.
If there is still a Levant in 2122, will its inhabitants scour the minutiae of our lives with the same keenness we search for those of our grandparents’ times?
In this post, I shall meander simply because I want to.
My first time in Cairo was in 1974. On the drive from the airport to the hotel, I remember looking out of the window and thinking to myself, I’ve been here before. Home!
Writing This Arab Life was the first time I sat down to make prose of my emotions.
And only when I finished the manuscript did it occur to me that it revealed itself through juxtapositions, the most poignant among them that of Amman and Beirut;
Since 2019, when the Lebanese experiment officially unraveled, the topic of conversation among the chattering class has been about the shape of the coming collapse. What could we expect to emerge from the wreckage of a broken Lebanon?
Last week was momentous for Lebanon. Our state, with the guiding hand and the blessings of Hezbollah, the resistance movement and political powerhouse, signed a formal maritime border agreement with Israel.
Palestine on the Precipice? For Arabs on the other side of the fence, Palestine has always had that unique quality of being very near and unbearably far away. It sits so well at the heart of our identity, perhaps the only distinct object of passion and longing in an otherwise very fluid self. It’s not …
What’s With the Veil? What’s left to say about the veil? After all these years, one would have thought very little. But apparently, there’s still much ground to cover. As proof of its eternal relevance to the times, because our times are always tortured, here it is again, in Iran, at the forefront of the …
A Season of War This is a season of war: here in the Fertile Crescent, there in the North and Horn of Africa, in Europe between Russia and Ukraine… The statistics alone are enough material with which one can draw the starkest of portraits of this age. But along with the faces of war’s victims, …
The Old Amman and its il-Madineh At a small dinner party a few years ago in Beirut, I met George Arbid, then professor of Architecture at AUB and co-founder of the Arab Center for Architecture (ACA). He told me he was working on a region-wide project on monuments to modernity in Arab metropolises–or something to …